Just finished two weeks in Peru, and honestly, this felt like one of those once-in-a-lifetime trips. Went on my own and ended up spending most of it with people I’d only just met. Figured I’d share a trip report while it’s still fresh.
Lima (3 nights)
Stayed at Pariwana in Miraflores, which was a brilliant start as a solo traveller. Met loads of people straight away, including a few who had roughly the same amount of time in Peru and were heading along a similar route.
Went surfing down by the coast, ate very well at La Preferida and Tanta, and spent a few afternoons wandering around Miraflores. Also went to Molly’s for a few pints and the football, which was exactly what I needed.
The nights escalated fairly quickly. Went to Lima Bar and Saha with people from the hostel. Very late night. Great fun. Less great the following morning.
Paracas
I had Peru Hop booked for my journey from Lima to Cusco. It’s a hop-on, hop-off bus, and I liked the idea of stopping at places along the way rather than going straight there.
There was a mix of people on board, but I found it really easy to make friends. Having familiar faces at the next stop made a big difference travelling solo.
Met a French guy and a couple of Swedish girls on the bus who were super cool, and we ended up hanging out at the next few stops. Made travelling solo feel a lot less daunting.
In Paracas, I did the Ballestas Islands boat trip and visited the national reserve. Seeing penguins was a particular highlight. Stayed at Viajero, where we did a table quiz and had a few beers. Nice place to spend the evening before moving on.
Huacachina (2 nights)
This place is ridiculous. An actual oasis surrounded by massive sand dunes.
On the way, we stopped at a pisco vineyard, learnt how it was made, had some tastings and a really nice lunch.
Stayed at Wild Rover and spent the first afternoon by the pool before somehow ending up partying until about 6am. The next morning involved an Irish breakfast and football on the TV. Not my most adventurous cultural experience, but very enjoyable.
The dune buggy and sandboarding trip that evening was probably one of the best things I’ve ever done. The scale of the dunes is hard to explain until you’re standing out there. Absolutely unreal.
Naturally, celebrated that with more beers and another late night. Two nights felt right for me, although I left needing a decent sleep.
Wild Rover suited the trip I was having, but if your priority is quiet evenings and early nights, my account of staying up until 6am probably tells you everything you need to know.
Nazca and the bus to Arequipa
This was a long journey, but I slept better than expected. The seats reclined, we got blankets, and I managed to watch a fairly unreasonable amount of Breaking Bad.
Stopped to see the Nazca Lines on the way. Really strange and fascinating to think about people creating those enormous designs so long ago. I was glad to see them without adding another overnight stop to an already packed trip.
Arequipa
Arrived early in the morning and stayed at Viajero again. Really liked Arequipa. Beautiful architecture, good food and a slightly slower pace, which I needed by this point.
Did an organised pub crawl that finished in a salsa bar. My enthusiasm was considerably better than my dancing.
Also spent one day doing basically nothing, just reading and chilling in the hostel. Probably one of my better decisions on this trip.
I did the full-day Colca Canyon tour, and seeing the condors was incredible. In hindsight, this is somewhere I would have given more time. I’d have liked to do the overnight hike rather than fit it into a day trip. I was absolutely wrecked when I got back.
The day trip was one of the compromises of trying to fit everything into two weeks. Glad I saw it, but I wouldn’t choose that format again if I had time to stay longer.
Puno and Lake Titicaca
Next stop was Puno. Definitely colder than Lima!
Visited the Uros floating islands, which was really interesting. Seeing the homes and hearing about daily life there was such a different experience from anywhere else on the trip.
Stayed one night in Puno and went to a pizza place called Bianca. Slightly random detail to include after talking about Lake Titicaca, but their garlic sauce deserves a mention.
Cusco
The journey to Cusco was another long one, with a few stops and a buffet lunch that put me straight into a food coma.
Stayed at Wild Rover again. Really social hostel, but that hill on the way back is no joke. Especially after a few beers. I liked staying there, although I’d think twice about the location if you want an easy walk home every evening.
Did a city bus tour and a walking tour with some Norwegian lads I met at the hostel. We ended up booking our Machu Picchu trip together, which became one of the highlights of the whole journey.
One thing I wouldn’t repeat was the Sacred Valley tour I booked in person around the Plaza for S/75. The guide didn’t speak English, and we were rushed through the sites. I saw some beautiful places, but came away feeling like I hadn’t learnt much about them. Definitely wish I’d checked the language and itinerary properly before paying.
Also went to Chango one night, ate loads and really enjoyed wandering around the city. Cusco was one of those places where I could easily have stayed longer.
Rainbow Mountain
Did this with Rainbow Mountain Travels after about four hours’ sleep. Would strongly recommend making better bedtime decisions than I did.
The altitude hit me much harder here than anywhere else on the trip. Getting up was tough, but seeing the colours and the surrounding mountains made it worth the effort. The guides were also helpful and brought oxygen up for whoever needed it.
Was very happy to get back to the hostel and go straight to sleep afterwards.
Before another trip, I’d also look into what to bring for altitude and stomach issues, and get proper advice on medication beforehand. Would have been a more useful bit of preparation than deciding which hostel had the best bar.
Machu Picchu
Went with the Norwegian lads through Yapa Explorers. Our guides were great fun, especially Juan, and we got incredibly lucky with the weather. Lucky enough that I managed to get sunburnt.
When we got to Aguas Calientes, we had to queue for tickets at one of the official Machu Picchu ticket offices. I’d heard stories about enormous queues, but there was nobody in line when we arrived. Our guide helped us choose the circuit.
The scenery along the way was incredible, but actually seeing Machu Picchu was something else. You see the photos so often that you wonder whether it can possibly live up to them. For me, it absolutely did.
We had clear views the entire time. Having a guide made a big difference too. I would have missed so much of the history just walking around on my own.
Spent the night in Aguas Calientes afterwards. Tried guinea pig for the first time, which I think will also be my last time, then took the train back towards Cusco the following morning.
Onwards to Bolivia
After a quiet night back in Cusco, I continued towards Bolivia with Bolivia Hop, travelling via Puno to Copacabana. Really appreciated having someone help explain the border crossing.
Copacabana was a lovely place to slow down by the lake after a pretty full-on couple of weeks.
I’ve literally just arrived in La Paz and am staying at Wild Rover again. Apparently I’m a creature of habit. The city looks incredible, and the altitude hasn’t hit me just yet. Going to take it slow and go easy on the beers tonight, although I appreciate the rest of this post doesn’t exactly support that claim.
Still very early days for the Bolivia part, but excited to see more.
What I’d do differently
Give myself more time. Two weeks was enough to have an incredible trip, but I packed a lot in, and a few extra days would have helped. I’d especially have liked more time for Colca Canyon and Cusco.
Also, fewer big nights before early starts. Although I suspect I’d say that and make exactly the same decisions again.
My highlights / things I’d recommend
- Cocktails at Saha in Lima: Did their all you can drink offer when I visited, which set us up for a wild night out.
- Travelling with Peru Hop: Made getting between stops easy, and I met loads of people along the way.
- Ballestas Islands: Seeing penguins was a definite highlight.
- Sandboarding in Huacachina: One of the most incredible things I’ve ever done.
- Wild Rover Huacachina: Pool, parties and an Irish breakfast watching the football the next morning. Some very happy memories and some very rough mornings.
- Colca Canyon: Watching the condors was unreal. Wish I’d given myself time for the overnight hike.
- Machu Picchu: Obviously. Somehow even better than I’d imagined.
- Cusqueña Negra: Greatest beer of all time. Quite prepared to defend this opinion.
The landscapes were amazing, but the people made the trip. Started out alone in Lima and ended up sharing buses, meals, hikes and some very questionable nights out with friends from all over the place.
Would absolutely recommend Peru for solo travel. Happy to answer questions about the route, hostels or anything else below!