Is it worth repairing? It still accepts a controller just fine. I know its not a super easy fix and its a little beyond my expertise. Any ideas?

Hi all, I'm stuck on this one and would appreciate some input.
Console: PS5 CFI-1216A, EDM-030 board, disc edition.
Symptom:
Menu, apps and a light game (Fallout Shelter) run fine for a long time.
As soon as a PS5 game loads (even Astro Bot), the fan ramps up hard, then the console shuts off within seconds.
No overheating warning. On reboot: "Your PS5 wasn't turned off properly".
What I've done / tested:
Replaced the PSU with a new one (ADP-400FR): no change.
Tried another power cable and outlet.
Board is clean: no liquid metal spill, no burnt or bulging components.
APU: the previous owner had replaced the liquid metal with PTM7950; I've now applied MX-7. [Still shuts off with MX-7 / No longer shuts off with MX-7]
Replaced the thermal pads with thermal putty (RAM, SSD, VRM).
Thermal camera while launching a game (heatsink off, short test): VRM area stays even at around 42–44 °C, no hotspot.
Diode mode (red probe on ground) on the APU VRM inductors: about 0.055–0.069 on all phases, a few points around 0.082–0.089. Readings are consistent, no hard 0.000. The meter beeps, but the value drops gradually (caps charging).
Questions:
Does anyone have reference diode values for the APU Vcore / VDDCR rail on EDM-030 (or EDM-020)?
With these symptoms (stable under light load, dies as soon as it switches to full PS5 mode), would you suspect the VRM controller, a DrMOS failing under load, or the APU itself?
Is reading the UART error codes worth it here, and which codes should I look for?
I can share board photos, thermal shots and a video of the measurements.
Thanks in advance!

I've been pretty obsessively playing Monster Rancher for the last couple of days. Today it started out normal and then some weird red lines appeared and with every loading screen more and more appeared. The game still plays perfectly fine but it's like all the sprites are glitched? This seems to only happen on PS1 games (I've tried 3 different ones) as the PS2 games I tried do not have this weird issue. FMV videos also do not seem to be affected. I turned the console on and off (with the switch, let it sit for a few seconds before turning back on) and they're still there. Does anyone have any idea what's going on? I did a cursory Google search but couldn't find anything that matched what I'm experiencing here.

If it matters I'm on a fat PS2, SCPH-30001. I don't think it's memory card related as I do not have any save data for breath of fire 3, but I am using a new 3rd party PS1 memory card.

Context, my ps5 hdmi port is broken, I already paid a technician 79$ to fix it about 2 weeks ago, he tested it very shortly because he was abt to go on vacation for a week, and it worked. Went back home and it didn't. Long story short, when I told him it didn't work, he said he'll fix it for free, however now, he said that the difficulty of the repair is too hard, and that he won't be able to do it, so my question is really just for a qualified technician who has done these repairs before, is this really that hard? A new ps5 locally is about 1000$+ 😔 (The technician is not held accountable for the problem because I had an acquaintance with little to no experience with PS5 repairs DIY the thing beforehand. He said he did PC motherboard repairs and he'll give it a shot.)

Bought a Japanese Wii to play some Japanese games and it's not letting the discs enter all the way. It's like kinda grabbing them and then either struggling and making a churning sound right from the start or recently it started grabbing them smoother and now just stops right before the disc is all the way in. For a while it was not grabbing the disc at all but at least now it's grabbing them again. Video is where I'm at now where it'll at least grab the discs sometimes and just stop right before it's all the way in

I recetly brough a xbox one s and it powers on then of then i took the psu out and this is what was underneath [smoker owned tbis console]

Hi All...

Got a faulty Ps5 Which gives the PS5 Logo then goes black sometimes goes until the intro screen, gives the intro music and stays responsive.

First I thought it was just the encoder, tried a different known working encoder, same result.

Checked all filter caps, decoupling caps along hdmi and apu traces, hdmi diode values look fine.

it will stay on the safe boot controller prompt screen for as long as it wants. But when inside the safe mode it will give maybe 5 - 10 seconds before going black.

Also when updating the firmware from the it stayed until completion and did restart, only to go black after the logo with white light.

kind of clueless here and now I think it has something to do with the APU.. maybe a reflow will fix the issue????

Hi!

I recently attempted a shell swap on the switch lite.

After finishing I had the following behaviors:
- console did turn on
- display and backlight were working properly
- ZL, - button, power and volume buttons were not working

After reading online that the flex cable running from the motherboard to the daughterboard could be the issue, I reopened the console to check the connection.

The only things I touched were: the battery connector and the flex cable. (Besides the aluminum backplate and the screws ofc)

After putting back everything, the console didn’t turn on. (Or at least I think it didn’t. At that point I haven’t considered the backlight to be the issue and there were no sounds coming out of the console as I had it on mute before the shell swap)

I read that the flex cable could be broken so I ordered a new one.

I swapped the cable and the following happens:
- console turns on but the display has no backlight
- ZL, - button, power and volume buttons AND right button are not working

My guess is now that the daughter board could be the issue and I need to replace that.
Before I go into another purchase, can you suggest what other test I could run to confirm the issue?

Thanks!

I got this super cheap 2ds for parts with the infamous “shuts off with a pop” issue and I can’t find the culprit. All the ribbon cables are in tact and have been reseated, and the lcd screen is still in great condition. Something I had noticed is somebody was in this ds before me and for whatever reason the L trigger is gone. Does this interfere with the system startup check?

I recently disassembled my PS4 Slim (CUH-2216A) for cleaning and noticed that the third power chip had no thermal pad, neither on the chip nor on the heatsink. I’m confident I didn’t lose it during disassembly.
I’m also certain the console had never been opened before, as there were absolutely no signs of previous disassembly.
After watching several teardown videos, I noticed that some later PS4 Slim revisions, including mine, seem to be missing this exact thermal pad as well.

I reassembled the console without adding one because I had no spare pads and didn’t want to leave it disassembled. But now I’m having second thoughts.

Can anyone confirm if this is normal for later CUH-22xx revisions and safe by design, or should I open it up again and install a thermal pad?

Thanks!

PS5 Slim CFI-2015

For those of you guys who’ve had this issue, where do you start to troubleshoot the problem. Google searches comes back with psu/fuse problems, but also could be anything.

Ive taken it apart at the motherboard looks fine as there are no obvious shorts. Now im looking around with a multimeter on common spots that others have mentioned like F7001/2 fuses.

The console isnt dusty/dirty and the liquid metal doesn’t have a dry spot. Doesn’t boot enough to get into safe mode.

Not sure about committing to buying another psu for this ps5 yet, as Im still trying to diagnose the problem.

So my GameBoy fell off of my desk yesterday. It still runs just fine, the tape stayed connected, but the plastic shell snapped at the hinge and I have to be very delicate with it. I know this is kind of on the boring side of console repair, but I must ask nonetheless: is this a problem that superglue or some other adhesive can solve? I know next to nothing about fixing things, I’m so sorry.

Did I damaged the inductors? I was trying very gently to pry the metal shield to get to the heatsinks.

Does anyone have the specifics of the speaker bracket for the limited edition consoles? Got a weird refurb in front of me. Done by MS. Special edition board (no buzzer speaker), with custom boot sounds. I installed a buzzer, but they sound terrible. Swapped it out for a header and an 8ohm 1watt speaker, but now I have no mount for it. Sure, hot glue works, but I've got a 3d printer. I can just print a bracket. Does anyone have one they can measure out to be recreated in openscad, or have a stl of the bracket? I looked pretty thoroughly online and couldn't find anything. Not even the brackets for sale.

Kind of odd to get a silent special edition board in a regular balck shell, but I do know it CAN happen.

On my 3DS XL, the speaker ribbon cable was damaged, so I replaced it. Now, when I turn the console on, the blue LED lights up for 3 seconds, the speakers make a "pop" sound, and it shuts off abruptly.

I suspect the soldering might have been done poorly. Any advice?

Looking for a decent priced ps5 to jailbreak and came across this one on marketplace. I have dealt with soldering, Liquid Metal etc but this one is a bit new to me. Any tips/suggestions?

Hello,

Right now I’m trying to repair this ps2 slim 90000 series to see if I can get it to work again, but when I turn on the console it shows no sign of life other than the green power light. No video signal, audio, no fan spin, and the disc drive doesn’t even spin up. Also if I press and hold down the power button to turn it off, it remains green and I have to unplug the power cord to turn off the console.

I have opened up the console and was testing around and found the Chip called FP6135518G-08148431-B and It was scorching hot when I touch it. I’m very new to repair but I’m assuming this chip is shorted and needs to be replaced but I cannot find any information on this chip anywhere. Unfortunately this series of the ps2 slim is the only one that does not have the service manual on the internet, so I’m wondering if anyone knows anything about this chip and if it is possible to buy this chip anywhere or is the only way to get this chip is getting an donor board.

Thank you!

I’m planning to replace a GDDR6 RAM chip on my PS5
How do you guys usually do this? Do I need a bottom preheater, and if so, which one would you recommend?
Any tips or advice from people who’ve done this before?

this white PS2 slim I just purchased has a minor, but very interesting issue that I’ve never seen in my life. The piano chord sound on startup is missing, but the atmospheric wooshing noises are present, and there appear to be white lines in the Browser for like a second or so. More concerning is that when I put in an FMCB card and try to load up any homebrew applications (ULaunchElf, OPL) it just stays on a black screen, and I’m not sure if it’s connected to any of these issues too. Games load up fine though without any issues. I already tried changing the video settings, using different AV cables, and cleaning the AV port itself.

You know how the 3ds SD cards usually click up and down? Well this one is stuck lowered and I have no clue what to do to get it out. Frankly I’m scared of damaging the system SD card reader.
((It’s an SD card adapter because I use a Micro SD card with it))

Hello everyone,

I am in need of some advice or opinion. I got a „broken“ PS5 off a friend for free and am now getting to repairing it. The only broken part is the hdmi port. But if it were this simple then i wouldn’t be posting here. The issue is that someone tried to fix it themselves and ruined the mainboard through that (see pictures). They did say that they got it to show display initially and thought they would make the port a little cleaner and accidentally burned through the board. Is this repairable? If i were to get this repaired by shop how much am i looking at (in € Germany)?
I can’t get any better close up pictures without the quality going worse.

PS5 shuts down completely during PS5 games, usually after 5–10 minutes. PS4 games work normally.

UART log

18:13:38 | 80060000 | Main SoC GFX VRM power failure
18:13:38 | B0088108
18:13:38 | C0020303 | Repeated 15 times
18:13:39 | 80000001 | Temperature sensor read failed (FFFF)
18:13:44 | 808B00FF
18:13:58 | 80000009 | Unexpected power loss

Temperature at the time of shutdown:

SoC: 60.06°C (0x3C10)
ENV: 28.44°C (0x1C70)

How can I identify the exact problem? There is no noticeable short around mosfets. I have a thermal camera, but I am hesitant to power on and play games without cooling the surface of the ram and mosfet chips…

Please share your ideas and tips :)

This has been happening ever since I replaced the digitizer on my DSI XL, the bottom screen would have its brightness cycle constantly even if I don't do anything. Any advice on what could be causing this?

ETA: I noticed that it seems to be happening more frequently when I have a protective case on, so that hopefully narrows down the possible causes

Hey everyone, hoping someone with Jasper board experience can point me in the right direction.

What I’ve done so far

My Jasper Xbox 360 threw RRoD with error code 0022. After I stripped it down to rework the thermal paste I received error 0022, and once I opened the console back up I found a surface‑mount resistor knocked off near the GPU. I scavenged a replacement resistor from an Xbox 360 Slim board and soldered it into place.

After reassembly I’m still getting consistent error 0022, and it occasionally boots to error 0020 — the 0020 fault only pops up rarely. I’ve carefully gone over the whole board with magnification and can’t find any other missing passive components, lifted pads or obvious broken traces anywhere else.