You know like when you have brick building on top of septic tank and some crystals form on it

Could the crystal formation on a wall where there is speinc tank under it contain potassium nitrate

Because like the fluid form the human waste can leach in to the soil react with a bacteria and then react with the potassium and calcium and other alkalines in the soil to make nitrat salts

There is like wall on top of a public toilet in my doorm where its been used for years

And there us alot salt formation on Said wall on the side were the septic tank should be

And it seems like the tank us not deep under ground

If devolve it in water

Boil it so some of carboats drop out

Filter it

Then add either pot Ash or just potassium carbonate or Ash brine

Or just Ash

So it would react with the calsum nitrat

Then boil it again to remove the carbonates that drop out

Then ues re crystaltion to pure salt peter

I’m in Canada and can not find these anywhere! I don’t have a lab but will soon. Is there anyway to get these in the meantime

Hello po, Food tech student here may alam po ba kayong chemical store where I can buy Undenatured (non-denatured) food-grade ethyl alcohol na pwede for consumption, badly needed po for our research

I have some potassium that I got but now dont need anymore I used some of it, its super pure id take lower price than other sellers just to buy sum new chem…
if you are interested reply or send me message
EU only shipping

Hey, I'm getting into hydroponics and aquaponics, and I'd like to 3D print most of my parts. My main concern is layer lines trapping bacteria and making everything harder to clean.

I was looking into chemically smoothing PETG, but the chemicals needed aren't legally available for me to buy here (bummer, ik). So I started looking at ASA since it's more UV-resistant and can be smoothed with acetone.

The problem is that I've seen people saying ASA can release toxic styrene even after being left to off-gas for a few days, while others say off-gassing makes it safe. I don't know enough chemistry to tell who's right.

My main questions are:

• Is acetone-smoothed ASA actually safe for long-term use in hydroponic or aquaponic systems?
• Could it leach anything harmful into the water, especially for fish?
• Does off-gassing for a few days actually make a meaningful difference?
• Is there a better filament or finishing method for parts that will be constantly exposed to water, UV light, and possibly fish?

I'm no expert; I just don't want to accidentally poison my plants, fish, or myself lol.

Thanks to anyone who can help! (GOT BANNED FOR ASKING THIS IN CHEMISTRY LOL)

Hi everyone! I just wanted to share a moment with you.

I think this is something that happens to everyone who builds things. Whenever you’re working on a project, there are always a few mistakes and unexpected problems along the way.

This was just a trial model I made to test the design before building the final version.

In my opinion, it’s not that difficult to make if you have the right resources and tools, such as a drill, a laser cutter, and so on.

But I wanted to share this moment because I believe everyone who builds things goes through something like this at some point.

So, have you guys ever experienced something similar?

METHOD:

To make the electrolyzer, you need thick steel plates. Cut seven pieces, each measuring 3 × 4 (according to your chosen unit of measurement). These dimensions aren't fixed; you can use different sizes, but make sure to calculate everything accordingly.

You’ll also need a rubber sheet.

For the electrolyte, you can use KOH (potassium hydroxide) or H₂SO₄ (sulfuric acid). I used drain cleaner because I couldn't get KOH or H₂SO₄.

However, drain cleaners can contain different chemicals, so their composition matters. Don't assume that every drain cleaner is suitable for electrolysis.

KOH is commonly used as an electrolyte, while H₂SO₄ is also conductive but highly corrosive and requires appropriate materials and safety precautions.

Arrange the plates and rubber sheets alternately, starting with a negative plate, followed by a rubber sheet, then a positive plate, and so on.

Note: Suppose your plates are circular. The rubber sheets should have the same outer shape, but you need to cut a smaller circle out of the centre to create an opening. I know, “a circle with a hole in it” sounds a bit weird, but I hope you get what I mean!

The original design also used a 12 V power supply.

The rest may seem relatively straightforward, but having the right tools, materials, and resources makes a big difference.

That's all I wanted to share. Thanks for reading!

I am curious, given recent news topics, if this is hard to do or expected behavior if one is mishandled.

Hey does anyone have any recommendations on workspace materials? As in, any specific material for table surface to work on? Where do you guys store your chemicals? I’m only planning on having small amounts, less than 100g/ml, and obviously keeping the flammables, oxidizers, acids, bases, elements, etc separate from each other, I was more asking about whether you guys use special lockers or table material or just like regular furniture?

Is it safe to heat my borosilicate erlenmeyer with a common lighter? Or will it cause thermal shock strong enough to break the flask? I brought it from Amazon, it doesn't specify any safe temperature limit.

Also is there any safe operating temperature chart for different glasswares?

Some gas is synthesizing at my one shelf, there's none that smell like it smells after like a few days, it's not ammonia or anything, I dunno what it isc how do I at least try to id